Autumn in Normandy - Part II

Initially, I planned to share my photos from Normandy in two blog posts. However, given the number of images, I decided to split them further, dedicating part two solely to the amazing city of Rouen, where I spent a couple of days. As in part one, I will accompany the images with excerpts from my diary.

Rouen

Another train journey, and I am in Rouen. The city reveals itself instantly, with just a few streets beyond the station. It unfolds its character and its history through crowded streets lined with the typical half-timbered houses. Like the ones in Mont Saint Michel, these buildings come in a palette of colours: soft pinks, muted greens, pale blues, vivid yellows, and deep reds, each with its own subtle variation. At first glance, they might seem alike, but they are surprisingly distinct. There is the potbellied one, the one with the askew door or the drooping window, the house that seems to be leaning forward or tilting precariously to one side or the other. Some are crumbling, others freshly restored, with antique shops and restaurants bringing some modernity into their look. Getting lost here is a delight; following the rhythm of shapes and colours becomes a pleasurable adventure.  

I explore the city center, drawn to the breathtaking cathedral that emerges at the end of a narrow street. A light rain softens its edges, reminding me of the famous Monet’s painting. I am enchanted by its beauty, by the facade which looks like a lace of stone, and by the grandeur of its interior.

The next day, I visit the ossuary, built in 1300 during the great plague, a complex of buildings embracing a silent courtyard. No saints or angels stand guard here, only skulls and chains of bones. In such a somber place I would not expect to find a stunning ceramic gallery and a shop showcasing local artisans’ works. I leave almost an hour later, carrying a couple of small vases and thinking of those who once rested in this place. 

The rain continues to fall, but Rouen becomes more enchanting with each square, each courtyard, each building I discover (and what a revelation the Ironworks museum, nested in a former gothic church!). It must be its magic that traps me, inviting me not to return home.